The 40-step checklist for prepping your motorcoach for indoor storage in Las Vegas and getting it road-ready after. Free, no signup. Call (702) 296-1515.
A well-prepared motorcoach comes out of storage in the same condition it went in. These are the steps worth doing before you hand us the keys — a few hours of effort that save thousands in avoidable repairs.
Exterior Preparation
Start with the outside. These steps protect your paint, seals, and structural components while the coach sits.
Thorough wash — Remove all dirt, bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. These become harder to remove over time.
Wax or ceramic coat — Apply a fresh layer of protection to all painted surfaces.
Inspect roof seals — Check and reseal any cracks around vents, skylights, and seams.
Check window seals — Look for gaps, cracks, or peeling caulk around all windows.
Cover external vents — Prevent insects and debris from entering through furnace and refrigerator vents.
Retract slideouts — Store all slideouts in the retracted position and clean the seals.
Lubricate locks & hinges — Apply lubricant to all exterior door locks, compartment latches, and hinges.
Interior Preparation
The interior needs attention too. These steps prevent mold, pests, and odors while the coach is closed up.
Deep clean everything — Vacuum carpets, wipe counters, clean appliances inside and out.
Remove all food — Empty the refrigerator, freezer, pantry, and all cabinets of any food items.
Leave fridge door open — Prop the refrigerator and freezer doors open to prevent mold and odors.
Moisture absorbers — Place DampRid or similar products in the kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom areas.
Close blinds & shades — Protect interior fabrics from UV exposure through windows.
Remove valuables — Take out electronics, documents, and anything temperature-sensitive.
Leave cabinet doors and drawers slightly open to promote air circulation throughout the coach. This prevents musty odors and mold in enclosed spaces.
Mechanical & Systems
Your RV's mechanical systems need specific care before storage.
Fuel tank — Fill to at least 3/4 full and add fuel stabilizer. Run the engine for 10 minutes to circulate.
Oil change — Fresh oil prevents acids from corroding engine internals during storage.
Coolant check — Ensure antifreeze is rated for your region's lowest expected temperature. (Outdoor or unheated storage only — our building never reaches freezing.)
Battery disconnect — Disconnect the chassis and house batteries, or arrange a paid battery-maintenance add-on.
Tire pressure — Inflate to manufacturer's maximum recommended PSI.
Generator — Run the generator under load for 30 minutes, then top off the fuel.
Water system — Drain fresh, gray, and black water tanks completely. Worth doing indoors too — this one is about stagnant water and bacteria, not freezing.
Propane — Turn off the propane tank valves.
Picking It Up
The same systems you shut down going in have to come back online in the right order, or you risk a dead battery on the highway, a gas smell you can't source, or a slide that won't seat right.
Battery Reactivation
Start here — nothing else works without power.
Reconnect in the right order — Chassis battery first, then house batteries — the reverse of how you disconnected them.
Check terminals before you connect — Look for corrosion (a white or blue crust) and clean it off with a wire brush before reattaching.
Charge before you crank — A battery that sat for weeks or months may need a few hours on a charger before it holds enough voltage to start the engine.
Test everything electrical before you drive — Interior lights, step lights, slide-out motors, and the awning — confirm each one responds before you're on the road.
Check the battery disconnect switch — If your coach has one, make sure it's fully engaged, not just close to it.
If a battery won't hold a charge after a full charging cycle, replace it before the trip rather than betting on it — a battery that failed during storage rarely improves once you're on the highway.
Reopening & Systems
With power restored, bring the rest of the coach's systems back online — vents and slideouts first, propane last, since propane work should always happen with airflow already open.
Propane is the one step in this checklist with real physical risk if it's done wrong. Do not skip the leak check, and do not attempt it yourself if you smell gas, if a fitting looks worn or damaged, if the system was serviced or removed during storage, or if you're not fully confident performing the check. In any of those cases, stop and have a qualified RV propane technician inspect the system before you light anything.
Uncover and open roof vents — Remove any covers you left on for storage, and let the coach air out before doing any propane work.
Extend slideouts slowly — Watch the seals as they move — look for cracking, dry rot, or debris that could tear a seal on the way out.
Inspect before pressurizing propane — Check hoses, fittings, and the regulator for cracks or wear before you turn the tank valve back on.
Open the propane valve slowly, then leak-test every connection — Use a soap-and-water solution on each fitting — bubbles mean a leak. Never use a lighter or open flame to check for a leak.
Reconnect and sanitize the water system — If tanks sat drained, sanitize fresh water lines before use, especially after a long stay.
If you're ever unsure whether a propane connection is holding, don't guess — a failed leak test or any smell of gas means stop and call a professional, not troubleshoot further yourself.
Exterior & Interior Once-Over
A quick walk-through catches problems before they catch you on the road.
Check for pests — Mice and insects look for gaps during long stays — check under the hood, in storage bays, and behind appliances.
Wipe down any residue — Wax, cover fabric, or dust that settled during storage.
Confirm tire pressure yourself — Even with tire pressure checks included with storage, verify pressure again before a long drive — tires lose pressure over time regardless.
Check fuel and oil — If you used a stabilizer before storage it should still be effective, but visually check for separation or an odd smell if the coach sat for several months.
Test smoke and CO detectors — Batteries drain even when nothing else is running.
Mechanical Road-Readiness
Before you pull out of the lot, give the coach a few minutes to prove it's ready.
Start and idle before driving — Let the engine run and warm up rather than starting and immediately pulling out — watch the gauges for anything unusual.
Test the brakes at low speed — Brakes that sat can develop light surface rust on the rotors; a few gentle stops clears it before you need them at highway speed.
Run the generator under load — If equipped, confirm it starts and holds a load rather than discovering an issue mid-trip.
Walk the exterior — Check all compartment doors and steps are latched, mirrors are set, and nothing was left unsecured from storage.
While It's Stored With Us
There is no owner checklist for this stretch — that is rather the point. Here is what happens while your coach sits, and the one thing worth telling us before you go.
Tire pressure checks are included — Checked and filled if needed at no extra charge, which is what keeps a standing coach from flat-spotting, wearing unevenly, or cracking a sidewall.
The building holds 62-82°F on its own — It is insulated rather than air-conditioned, so the temperature stays in that band year-round instead of swinging to 115°F+ outside. No freezing, no UV, far less dust than any outdoor lot.
Tell us if yours is a Sprinter — Sprinter chassis draw power continuously through a bank of control modules even while parked, and an unmaintained battery is routinely dead after a few weeks — sometimes too dead for a simple jump. The diesel exhaust fluid degrades the same way under sustained heat. Both are available as a paid add-on through our service center.
48 hours' notice and it's staged and ready — Business hours are Monday-Friday 8 AM-5 PM, Saturday by appointment. Shorter notice may be possible for a fee.